makes around three servings
1 lb boneless veal, trimmed of as much fat as possible and cut in 1" cubes
1 1/2 cups beef broth
flour
salt
pepper
paprika
white pepper
olive oil
3-4 slices thick cut bacon, diced
1 onion, sliced into strips or rings
2 cloves garlic
8 oz mushrooms, cut into thick slices
Mix salt and pepper with flour and lightly dredge the veal cubes in it. Meanwhile, heat a large deep saute pan over medium high heat, and add bacon. When pan is ready, the veal cubes, making sure to brown them on all sides as quickly as possible. If bacon does not give off enough fat, use a little olive oil to prevent burning or sticking. Add the onion and garlic; cook for a few minutes until they begin to soften.
Turn heat to low, add broth, about a quarter of a teaspoon of white pepper, and around a tablespoon of paprika, stir well. Cover and cook until veal is tender, at least twenty minutes, probably closer to forty, stirring occasionally. The sauce will thicken as it cooks because of the flour on the veal, but if you want it thicker, cook it uncovered for a bit, stirring frequently. Add the mushrooms around five minutes before it's finished. Some people like sour cream mixed in right before serving, but it's very good without that too. Serve over egg noodles.
12 April 2006
08 April 2006
everyday bread pudding
This is based on the low-fat bread pudding recipe in my new edition of the Better Homes & Gardens Cookbook. It's good made with a dense Italian or French style bread--the Cuban bread we get around here is perfect. If your bread isn't stale, you can dry the cubes out in a warm oven for 10-15 minutes.
6 beaten eggs
3 c milk
1/2 c sugar
2 T vanilla
2-3 t finely grated orange peel
1/2 t ground cardamom
1/2 t ground cinnamon
6-8 c dry bread cubes (around 3/4" square)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Beat together eggs, milk, sugar, vanilla, orange peel, cardamom, and cinnamon. Put bread cubes in an ungreased baking dish. Pour egg mixture over bread mixture. You want the liquid mixture to come at least halfway up the bread but not to cover the top of the cubes. If you need to mix a little more liquid, use 2 eggs to a cup of milk, adding flavoring at your discretion.
Bake for 40-45 minutes or until a knife inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool slightly. If desired, serve warm with Whiskey Sauce or whipped cream or both (this will alter the low-fat attribute somewhat).
If you want, you can put a streusel-style topping on it before cooking: combine 1/3 c all-purpose flour, 1/3 c packed brown sugar, and 3 T softened butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs; sprinkle over pudding before baking.
6 beaten eggs
3 c milk
1/2 c sugar
2 T vanilla
2-3 t finely grated orange peel
1/2 t ground cardamom
1/2 t ground cinnamon
6-8 c dry bread cubes (around 3/4" square)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Beat together eggs, milk, sugar, vanilla, orange peel, cardamom, and cinnamon. Put bread cubes in an ungreased baking dish. Pour egg mixture over bread mixture. You want the liquid mixture to come at least halfway up the bread but not to cover the top of the cubes. If you need to mix a little more liquid, use 2 eggs to a cup of milk, adding flavoring at your discretion.
Bake for 40-45 minutes or until a knife inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool slightly. If desired, serve warm with Whiskey Sauce or whipped cream or both (this will alter the low-fat attribute somewhat).
If you want, you can put a streusel-style topping on it before cooking: combine 1/3 c all-purpose flour, 1/3 c packed brown sugar, and 3 T softened butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs; sprinkle over pudding before baking.
gingered sugar cookies
For once, I didn't change this recipe at all (except to add a little more ginger). According to the folks at Cooks Illustrated, from whence it came, it's best to use flour with a protein of around 10.5 percent (Pillsbury or Gold Medal) rather than something (like King Arthur at 11.7 percent). The higher protein will result in drier, cakier cookies.
Makes 2 dozen cookies
1/2 c sugar, for rolling dough
1 t grated fresh ginger (I use this stuff and press the liquid out in paper towels)
2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t table salt
16 T (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but still firm (60 to 65 degrees F)
1 c granulated sugar
1 T light brown sugar
1 large egg
2-4 T minced crystallized ginger
1 1/2 t vanilla extract
In food processor or spice grinder, process 1/2 c sugar and fresh ginger until just combined; set aside for rolling.
Adjust oven racks to upper- and lower-middle positions; heat oven to 375 degrees. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in medium bowl; set aside.
With mixer, beat butter, 1 c sugar, and brown sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add egg, crystallized ginger, and vanilla; beat at medium speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Add dry ingredients and beat at low speed until just combined, about 30 seconds.
Place ginger sugar for rolling in shallow bowl. Fill medium bowl with cold tap water. Dip hands in water and shake off the excess (this prevents dough from sticking to your hands and ensure that sugar sticks to dough). Roll heaping tablespoon dough into 1 1/2" ball between moistened palms; roll ball in ginger sugar, then place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough, moistening hands frequently and spacing balls about 2" apart. Butter the bottom of a flat-bottomed drinking glass; dip bottom of glass in remaining ginger sugar and flatten dough balls with bottom of glass until dough is 1/2-3/4" thick.
Bake until cookies are golden brown around edges and just set and very lightly colored in center, 15 to 18 minutes, reversing position of cookie sheets from front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking time. Cool cookies on baking sheet about 3 minutes; using wide metal spatula, transfer cookies to wire rack and cool to room temperature.
Makes 2 dozen cookies
1/2 c sugar, for rolling dough
1 t grated fresh ginger (I use this stuff and press the liquid out in paper towels)
2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t table salt
16 T (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but still firm (60 to 65 degrees F)
1 c granulated sugar
1 T light brown sugar
1 large egg
2-4 T minced crystallized ginger
1 1/2 t vanilla extract
In food processor or spice grinder, process 1/2 c sugar and fresh ginger until just combined; set aside for rolling.
Adjust oven racks to upper- and lower-middle positions; heat oven to 375 degrees. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in medium bowl; set aside.
With mixer, beat butter, 1 c sugar, and brown sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add egg, crystallized ginger, and vanilla; beat at medium speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Add dry ingredients and beat at low speed until just combined, about 30 seconds.
Place ginger sugar for rolling in shallow bowl. Fill medium bowl with cold tap water. Dip hands in water and shake off the excess (this prevents dough from sticking to your hands and ensure that sugar sticks to dough). Roll heaping tablespoon dough into 1 1/2" ball between moistened palms; roll ball in ginger sugar, then place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough, moistening hands frequently and spacing balls about 2" apart. Butter the bottom of a flat-bottomed drinking glass; dip bottom of glass in remaining ginger sugar and flatten dough balls with bottom of glass until dough is 1/2-3/4" thick.
Bake until cookies are golden brown around edges and just set and very lightly colored in center, 15 to 18 minutes, reversing position of cookie sheets from front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking time. Cool cookies on baking sheet about 3 minutes; using wide metal spatula, transfer cookies to wire rack and cool to room temperature.
12 March 2006
Potato Soup
from The New Spanish Table by Anya von Bremzen
2-4 servrings
1 1/2 lbs baking potatoes (Yukon Gold)
1/4 c extra virgin olive oil
1/2 c slivered almonds (blanched whole)
6 large garlic cloves, peeled
salt and pepper
4-5 cups homemade or good boxed chicken stock
a pinch of saffron, pulverized in mortar
2 t sherry vinegar
parsleycrumbled
crisp bacon for garnish (shredded serrano ham or proscuitto)
Peel and cut the potatoes into irregular chunks this way: Insert the tip of a small sharp knife into each potato, and twist it, until a chunk 1 1/2" pops out. Continue until you have reduced all your potatoes to chunky rubble. Heat the olive oil in a heay pot, at least 3 qt size. Add the almonds and garlic, and cook them over a medium heat, until they are golden-about 5 minutes, being careful not to burn them. Remove to a coffee grinder or mini processor and pulverize.
Add the potatoes to the pan, and stir them around for a minute or two. Add the broth, and all but 2 tsps of the pulverized almond mix. Bring to a boil, and turn down to a simmer. Dissolve the saffron in about 2 tbsps of the soup, and let it sit for a minute or two. Add it to the soup, with salt and pepper. Cook for about 25 minutes, at which point you should be able to crush about half of the potatoes with the back of a big spoon. Do so.
Mix the vinegar with the remaining almond mix, and stir into the soup. Garnish each bowl with the chopped parsley and bacon (ham). Consume with a coarse thick country type bread.
2-4 servrings
1 1/2 lbs baking potatoes (Yukon Gold)
1/4 c extra virgin olive oil
1/2 c slivered almonds (blanched whole)
6 large garlic cloves, peeled
salt and pepper
4-5 cups homemade or good boxed chicken stock
a pinch of saffron, pulverized in mortar
2 t sherry vinegar
parsleycrumbled
crisp bacon for garnish (shredded serrano ham or proscuitto)
Peel and cut the potatoes into irregular chunks this way: Insert the tip of a small sharp knife into each potato, and twist it, until a chunk 1 1/2" pops out. Continue until you have reduced all your potatoes to chunky rubble. Heat the olive oil in a heay pot, at least 3 qt size. Add the almonds and garlic, and cook them over a medium heat, until they are golden-about 5 minutes, being careful not to burn them. Remove to a coffee grinder or mini processor and pulverize.
Add the potatoes to the pan, and stir them around for a minute or two. Add the broth, and all but 2 tsps of the pulverized almond mix. Bring to a boil, and turn down to a simmer. Dissolve the saffron in about 2 tbsps of the soup, and let it sit for a minute or two. Add it to the soup, with salt and pepper. Cook for about 25 minutes, at which point you should be able to crush about half of the potatoes with the back of a big spoon. Do so.
Mix the vinegar with the remaining almond mix, and stir into the soup. Garnish each bowl with the chopped parsley and bacon (ham). Consume with a coarse thick country type bread.
06 March 2006
blood orange glazed salmon
fresh squeezed blood orange juice, 1/2 to 3/4 c
fresh chopped ginger, around 1 t
honey or raw sugar, to taste
rice wine vinegar, around 1 T
white wine or vermouth, around 2 T
combine the above ingredients in a small saucepan and simmer over low heat until mixture thickens to the desired consistency. this could take up to 30 minutes.
salmon filets, about 6 oz each
sesame oil, 2 T
soy sauce, 2 T
white wine or vermouth, 1/4 to 1/2 c
meanwhile, preheat the oven 400 F. rinse the salmon filets and pat them dry. dress with kosher salt and pepper if desired. heat a large heavy skillet until very hot. sear the fillets in a tablespoon or two of sesame oil for a minute on each side.
transfer filets to a glass baking dish, drizzle the soy sauce and wine over them. bake for around 10 minutes or until done. transfer filets to a plate and spoon the glaze over the top.
fresh chopped ginger, around 1 t
honey or raw sugar, to taste
rice wine vinegar, around 1 T
white wine or vermouth, around 2 T
combine the above ingredients in a small saucepan and simmer over low heat until mixture thickens to the desired consistency. this could take up to 30 minutes.
salmon filets, about 6 oz each
sesame oil, 2 T
soy sauce, 2 T
white wine or vermouth, 1/4 to 1/2 c
meanwhile, preheat the oven 400 F. rinse the salmon filets and pat them dry. dress with kosher salt and pepper if desired. heat a large heavy skillet until very hot. sear the fillets in a tablespoon or two of sesame oil for a minute on each side.
transfer filets to a glass baking dish, drizzle the soy sauce and wine over them. bake for around 10 minutes or until done. transfer filets to a plate and spoon the glaze over the top.
20 February 2006
Blood Orange Curd
Zest from 6 blood oranges (if blood oranges are unavailable, use any type of tangerines or clementines)
8 ounces blood orange juice, strained (6-8 oranges or tangerines)
6 eggs
6 yolks
3/4 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean
8 ounces butter
Bring a pot of water to a simmer. In a bowl fitted atop the pot, combine eggs, sugar, yolks, zest and vanilla. Whisk well until mixture starts to warm. Add orange juice and allow to thicken, whisking occasionally. When mixture coats the back of a spoon thickly, it is ready.
Take off the heat and purée it well with an immersion blender and pass it through a fine-meshed strainer. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add butter in pieces and whisk or blend with the immersion blender until smooth.
06 February 2006
saffron mussel soup
4 lb mussels
3 cups water
3 cups dry white wine
1/4 - 1/2 stick butter
1 T olive oil
1/2 c onion, finely chopped
3-5 shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1-2 leeks, white and pale green parts only, finely shredded
1 t fenugreek, finely crushed
3 T flour
4 grams saffron threads, soaked in 1/4 c boiling water
3 cups chicken stock
2 T fresh parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
3 T whipping cream
scrub mussels clean in several changes of fresh water and pull off beards. discard any mussels that are cracked or do not close tightly when tapped.
put mussels into a deep saucepan with wine and water. cover and cook over high heat, shaking pan frequently, 6-7 minutes or until shells open. remove mussels, discarding any which remain closed. strain liquid through a fine sieve and reserve.
heat butter and oil in a saucepan. add onion, garlic, leek and fenugreek and cook gently 5 minutes. stir in flour and cook 1 minute. add saffron mixture, 1/2 gal. of reserved cooking liquid and chicken stock. bring to a boil, cover and simmer gently 15 minutes.
meanwhile, remove mussels from shells. add all mussels to soup and stir in chopped parsley, salt, pepper and cream. heat through 2-3 minutes.
garnish with parsley sprigs, if desired, and serve hot.
3 cups water
3 cups dry white wine
1/4 - 1/2 stick butter
1 T olive oil
1/2 c onion, finely chopped
3-5 shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1-2 leeks, white and pale green parts only, finely shredded
1 t fenugreek, finely crushed
3 T flour
4 grams saffron threads, soaked in 1/4 c boiling water
3 cups chicken stock
2 T fresh parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
3 T whipping cream
scrub mussels clean in several changes of fresh water and pull off beards. discard any mussels that are cracked or do not close tightly when tapped.
put mussels into a deep saucepan with wine and water. cover and cook over high heat, shaking pan frequently, 6-7 minutes or until shells open. remove mussels, discarding any which remain closed. strain liquid through a fine sieve and reserve.
heat butter and oil in a saucepan. add onion, garlic, leek and fenugreek and cook gently 5 minutes. stir in flour and cook 1 minute. add saffron mixture, 1/2 gal. of reserved cooking liquid and chicken stock. bring to a boil, cover and simmer gently 15 minutes.
meanwhile, remove mussels from shells. add all mussels to soup and stir in chopped parsley, salt, pepper and cream. heat through 2-3 minutes.
garnish with parsley sprigs, if desired, and serve hot.
guacamole our way
avocados, two medium to large
red bell pepper, one small or half a large
two to three scallions,
garlic, one or two cloves
cilantro, around a quarter cup, lightly packed
salt
red pepper flakes
lime juice
cut the avocados in half, remove the pit, and use whatever method you want to remove the flesh. cut into small chunks and immediately squeeze half a lime on top. mash lightly together with a fork.
finely dice the bell pepper. split the scallions all the way up the white part to the light green part and finely chop. either mince the garlic by hand, or use a garlic press. add garlic, pepper, and scallions to avocado. sprinkle lightly with salt and red pepper flakes. finely chop the cilantro and add half of it. mix with a fork, continuing to mash to desired consistency.
here's the tricky part--adding seasoning--salt, lime juice, pepper flakes, cilantro, and even more garlic to suit your taste. we usually end up using a teaspoon of salt, about a lime and a half, at least half a teaspoon of pepper flakes, a tablespoon of cilantro and two cloves of garlic for two good sized avocados.
red bell pepper, one small or half a large
two to three scallions,
garlic, one or two cloves
cilantro, around a quarter cup, lightly packed
salt
red pepper flakes
lime juice
cut the avocados in half, remove the pit, and use whatever method you want to remove the flesh. cut into small chunks and immediately squeeze half a lime on top. mash lightly together with a fork.
finely dice the bell pepper. split the scallions all the way up the white part to the light green part and finely chop. either mince the garlic by hand, or use a garlic press. add garlic, pepper, and scallions to avocado. sprinkle lightly with salt and red pepper flakes. finely chop the cilantro and add half of it. mix with a fork, continuing to mash to desired consistency.
here's the tricky part--adding seasoning--salt, lime juice, pepper flakes, cilantro, and even more garlic to suit your taste. we usually end up using a teaspoon of salt, about a lime and a half, at least half a teaspoon of pepper flakes, a tablespoon of cilantro and two cloves of garlic for two good sized avocados.
yogurt blue cheese dip
plain yogurt, preferably made with whole milk, 3/4-1 c
mayonnaise, regular or light, 2-3 T
crumbled gorgonzola, stilton, or other blue cheese, 2 oz or to taste
fresh garlic, 1 clove
scallions, white and green parts of 2-3, roughly chopped
fresh ground black pepper to taste
combine all in food processer and whiz around til combined. if you do not use whole milk yogurt, this will be really runny (hey, whole milk yogurt is still better for you than sour cream). cottage cheese would also work for some of the dairy, and would probably result in a thicker dip. this has a very strong garlic/scallion bite to it, so you might not want to add all of them until you've mixed and tasted a couple times.
you could deliberately make this on the runny side and it would make fine salad dressing.
great with crudite, might be good with fries, but probably not so good with potato chips.
mayonnaise, regular or light, 2-3 T
crumbled gorgonzola, stilton, or other blue cheese, 2 oz or to taste
fresh garlic, 1 clove
scallions, white and green parts of 2-3, roughly chopped
fresh ground black pepper to taste
combine all in food processer and whiz around til combined. if you do not use whole milk yogurt, this will be really runny (hey, whole milk yogurt is still better for you than sour cream). cottage cheese would also work for some of the dairy, and would probably result in a thicker dip. this has a very strong garlic/scallion bite to it, so you might not want to add all of them until you've mixed and tasted a couple times.
you could deliberately make this on the runny side and it would make fine salad dressing.
great with crudite, might be good with fries, but probably not so good with potato chips.
braised short ribs in a coffee-ancho chili sauce
based closely on this from Epicurious.
this looks complicated, but it's really not, and there isn't as much prep time as you'd think. mostly you want to start it enough ahead of time to let the ribs get to falling-off-the-bone-tenderness.
4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and ribs discarded
3 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed and seeded
guajillo and/or pasilla chiles, to taste, stemmed and seeded**
2 c boiling-hot water
1 medium onion, quartered
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 T pure maple syrup
3 T fresh lime juice
3 T tomato paste
1/2 t cinnamon
1/2 t cumin
1/4 t ground cloves
1/4 t ground coriander
3-4 lb beef short ribs or flanken
fresh ground black pepper
kosher salt
1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil
1/2 c strongly brewed coffee, preferably latin american
1/2 c red wine (optional-substitute water if not using)
2 cubes lamb bouillon
put chiles in heat proof bowl and pour hot water over them. steep for 20 minutes. meanwhile, combine onion, garlic, maple syrup, lime juice, tomato paste, cinnamon, cumin, cloves, and coriander in a blender or food processor. drain chiles in colander over a bowl. reserve a cup of the soaking liquid and taste (carefully--it will be very spicy!). if liquid is unpleasantly bitter, discard it. if not, and you want these to be spicy, reserve for braising. add softened chiles to food processor and puree. this will not taste good yet, but you may want to taste for salt and adjust.
preheat oven to 350º. pat ribs dry, season both sides with salt and pepper. in a heavy skillet, heat oil on medium-high until hot but not smoking. brown ribs in batches, turning occasionally, around 5 minutes a batch. transfer to a roasting pan just big enough to hold ribs in 1 layer.
turn the heat down to medium-low and carefully add puree. cook for a few minutes, and add bouillon cubes to a cup and a half of hot water, or to the chile-soaking-water. stir bouillon, coffee and wine (if using) into puree, and bring to a boil. stir well and then pour over meat. liquid should come at least halfway up sides of the meat. if it doesn't, add water or bouillon until it does.
cover pan tightly with foil and braise ribs in the middle of the oven until very tender; this will probably take at least three hours. using a heavy casserole dish may speed this up considerably, but I used a regular lightweight nonstick roasting/lasagna pan. important: check the ribs a couple times to make sure you don't need to add more liquid--they will burn if the liquid cooks down too much.
skim fat from pan juices and serve juices with ribs. ribs improve in flavor if braised a day or two ahead. cool, uncovered, then chill, surface covered with parchment paper or wax paper and roasting pan covered with foil. remove any solidified fat before reheating.
serves 3-4(?) (depends on how thick the ribs are). was excellent served over polenta, but would also be good with garlic potatoes.
**chile notes:
this looks complicated, but it's really not, and there isn't as much prep time as you'd think. mostly you want to start it enough ahead of time to let the ribs get to falling-off-the-bone-tenderness.
4 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, and ribs discarded
3 dried chipotle chiles, stemmed and seeded
guajillo and/or pasilla chiles, to taste, stemmed and seeded**
2 c boiling-hot water
1 medium onion, quartered
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 T pure maple syrup
3 T fresh lime juice
3 T tomato paste
1/2 t cinnamon
1/2 t cumin
1/4 t ground cloves
1/4 t ground coriander
3-4 lb beef short ribs or flanken
fresh ground black pepper
kosher salt
1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil
1/2 c strongly brewed coffee, preferably latin american
1/2 c red wine (optional-substitute water if not using)
2 cubes lamb bouillon
put chiles in heat proof bowl and pour hot water over them. steep for 20 minutes. meanwhile, combine onion, garlic, maple syrup, lime juice, tomato paste, cinnamon, cumin, cloves, and coriander in a blender or food processor. drain chiles in colander over a bowl. reserve a cup of the soaking liquid and taste (carefully--it will be very spicy!). if liquid is unpleasantly bitter, discard it. if not, and you want these to be spicy, reserve for braising. add softened chiles to food processor and puree. this will not taste good yet, but you may want to taste for salt and adjust.
preheat oven to 350º. pat ribs dry, season both sides with salt and pepper. in a heavy skillet, heat oil on medium-high until hot but not smoking. brown ribs in batches, turning occasionally, around 5 minutes a batch. transfer to a roasting pan just big enough to hold ribs in 1 layer.
turn the heat down to medium-low and carefully add puree. cook for a few minutes, and add bouillon cubes to a cup and a half of hot water, or to the chile-soaking-water. stir bouillon, coffee and wine (if using) into puree, and bring to a boil. stir well and then pour over meat. liquid should come at least halfway up sides of the meat. if it doesn't, add water or bouillon until it does.
cover pan tightly with foil and braise ribs in the middle of the oven until very tender; this will probably take at least three hours. using a heavy casserole dish may speed this up considerably, but I used a regular lightweight nonstick roasting/lasagna pan. important: check the ribs a couple times to make sure you don't need to add more liquid--they will burn if the liquid cooks down too much.
skim fat from pan juices and serve juices with ribs. ribs improve in flavor if braised a day or two ahead. cool, uncovered, then chill, surface covered with parchment paper or wax paper and roasting pan covered with foil. remove any solidified fat before reheating.
serves 3-4(?) (depends on how thick the ribs are). was excellent served over polenta, but would also be good with garlic potatoes.
**chile notes:
- ancho - dried poblano chile, ranging in color from green to red. sweet, yet moderately hot.
- chipotle - dried jalapeno pepper that has been smoked. usually very hot, it is also sweet, and chocolatey.
- guajillo - a dried deep red chile with a tough skin, actually a Mirasol chile variety. medium heat; it has an earthy flavor with plum and raisin tones.
- pasilla - a dried fresh Chilaca chile. medium to hot with berry and tobacco flavor tones.
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